Where to eat with kids in Provence (written for a supplement in the Telegraph summer 2017).
Marseille
Pizzeria Chez Jeannot
The Marseillais do their pizza differently to the Italians, and their thinner, pastry-like crust, will be a hit with parents and children alike. At Pizzeria Chez Jeannot, you can tuck into their giant pizzas with a huge variety of toppings, or try a seafood platter that will give youngsters a jaw-dropping introduction to all sorts of weird and wonderful creatures, from sea urchins to crab claws. Book a table on the terrace and you can admire the colourful bobbing fishing boats and look out towards the Château d’If, which featured in the Count of Monte Cristo. 129 Vallon des Auffes, 13007 Marseille. (00 33 4 91 52 11 28, pizzeriachezjeannot.com)
Juan-les-Pins Le Bistrot Terrasse, Hotel Belles Rives
Juan-les-Pins is one of the Cote d’Azur’s most stylish resorts, but there’s no need to forgo a meal in a stylish setting when travelling en famille. This casual bistro restaurant shares the same address as La Passagère, the Hotel Belle Rive’s gastronomic restaurant and is overseen by executive chef Yoric Tieche you can be assured of a good meal. The menu offers delicious fish dishes you would expect from the French Riviera, and the children’s menu offers a choice of four main dishes, a drink and scoop of ice-cream.
33, bd Edouard Baudoin, 06160 Juan-les-Pins (00 33 4 93 61 08 70, http://bellesrives.com)
Mougins
L’Amandier The village of Mougins, in the hills above Cannes, was where Pablo Picasso spent his final years, and little wonder when it offers such sensational views across the French Riviera. The village offers a whole host of excellent restaurants and among them is L’Amandier, a friendly and charming restaurant offering a good choice of menus. The restaurant also has a cookery school, which offers lessons for children. If you coincide your trip with a session, it’s the perfect excuse to sit and enjoy the view (and a cold glass of rosé) from the terrace while the kids cook up a storm inside. 48 Avenue Jean-Charles Mallet, 06250 Mougins (00 33 4 93 90 00 91, amandier.fr)
Les Baux-de-Provence
Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne
Perched on a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles regional park, Les Baux de Provence is one of France’s most beautiful villages and has a ruined castle hanging precariously on the edge of its cliffs. Among its narrow streets, the Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne is a friendly restaurant with a pretty terrace shaded by mulberry trees. Try the daily ‘market menu’ while the kids tuck into the menu enfant, with staples such as pasta bolognaise and steak haché with chips. After lunch, make a bee-line for the Santons museum which has fascinating displays of the traditional carved nativity figurines illustrating scenes from across Provence. 13520 Les Baux de Provence (00 33 4 90 54 32 06, la-reinejeanne.com)
Avignon Ginette et Marcel
This family-run bistro within the walls of Avignon is a perfect little hangout for youngsters who love anything on toast. The café’s speciality is ‘les tartines’, chunky slices of bread with all manner of toppings, including cheese and tomato, and even Nutella if anyone is having a fussy moment. The décor is charmingly retro, with a 1940s vibe, and there is a good selection of fruit tarts and cakes. For further teeth-rotting treats, there is a pick’n’mix stand with a selection of penny sweets. 25-27 Place des Corps Saints, 84000 Avignon (00 33 4 90 85 58 70)
Nice La Favola
This bright and cheerful restaurant sits in the Cours Saleya market, one of Nice’s most vibrant areas. Take a seat at one of the red banquettes inside, or enjoy lunch on the sunny terrace. Its menu is a mouth-watering range of Mediterranean staples such as pizza, fish dishes and pasta, and if you have room after their tasty mains, order one of their giant desserts with four spoons and tuck in. Once lunch is over browse the market, or walk it off along the seafront. 13, cours Saleya, 06300 Nice (00 33 4 93 04 45 23, la-favola.com)
Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer Family Bains
At the small beach resort close east of Marseille, Family Bains offers a chance to indulge in Provençal cuisine literally a stone’s throw from the sea. Set on a white sandy beach, the restaurant has an area dedicated to families, and serves everything from a salade niçoise to an extra, extra large (XXL) family burger. Once lunch is over, there are surfboards, body boards and even paddlebikes to hire.
Boulevard de la Plage, 83270 Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer (00 33 04 94 26 58 41, www.familybains.fr)
Arles Le Criquet
Any trip to the Roman town of Arles comes with an in-built history lesson. From the legacy of Vincent Van Gogh, who painted some 200 artworks in and around the city, to the enormous amphitheatre, which now hosts concerts and bull-fighting. Just a few steps from there, the cosy restaurant Le Criquet is so popular it’s best to reserve a table. Serving delicious Mediterranean cuisine at rustic wooden tables, the service is friendly and hospitable whatever age you are. 21 rue Porte de Laure, 13200 Arles (00 33 4 90 96 80 51).
Marseille pizza photo by Carissa Gan on Unsplash