A quick whizz through the news reviews of the year and France gets a minor look-in among the dastardly politics of 2019. The FIFA Women’s World Cup saw fans swarm to stadia nationwide, and a tragic fire destroyed much of Paris’ Notre-Dame Cathedral. Meanwhile, the disruptions caused by Les Gilets Jaunes and more recently the transport strikes made many of us grind to a halt. Thankfully I dodged the crowds and the hold-ups and found breathtaking landscapes basking in glorious sunshine, hearty gastronomy that fed the soul, and enchanting local festivals where I was welcomed like a friend. Over the year, I tracked down a fresh batch of recommendations to weave into articles for publications such as The Times, The Guardian, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveller Magazine, so here are my favourite finds in reverse order – Top-of-the-Pops stylee.
10. The vineyards of the Vaucluse – Discovered the kooky corkscrew museum at the Domaine de la Citadelle in Ménerbes, drank moreish wines at Chateau Pesquié and drove to the remote but magical Domaine de la Verriere (article coming soon in Decanter magazine).
9. Marseille – it’s been a while since I explored France’s second city, but it was exhilarating to delve into the different districts such as Les Noailles and Le Panier. My article was for The Times.
8. Emerald Coast, Brittany – this magnificent coastline west of St Malo had us marching across heather-strewn headlands, rock-pooling on vast empty beaches and taking to the waves in an elegant replica frigate ship for this article in The Guardian.
7. The Eiffel Tower – for 15 years, I’ve been recommending ‘hidden Paris’, ‘secret Paris’, ‘locals’ Paris’ etc. etc. but for once I embraced the most obvious attraction in the City of Light and it was the best thing we did all weekend. It was impossible not to share the kids’ excitement, magical to see the yellow-lit girders from inside and the view of Paris lit up in the dark made me giddy. Articles pending…!
6. The Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, Lyon – this brand new mega-museum is dedicated to all things food. My favourite part was the exhibits explaining the culinary history of Lyon itself (article published in The Times, another coming soon in National Geographic Traveller Food) .
5. Angers – The ideal summer city break; its chateau and its might walls bulge at its centre with an apocalyptic tapestry (yes, really), it has buzzing riverside bars, cycle trails and boat trips. Easy by train too.
4. Chateau Montcaud – This chic, family-run hotel near the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape served me one of the best meals I’ve had all year.
3. Collobrieres, Provence – It’s as rustic as France gets but the village is only an hour from Saint-Tropez; the chestnut festival was one of the best food festivals I’ve ever been to. Article coming in The Guardian next autumn.
2. Drôme – The road from Montelimar via Grignan to Nyons, through vineyards, olive groves, fruit orchards (and all the incredible foods I tasted and collected on the way) made my heart sing (read my article in The Times).
1. Côte des Sables – The north-west coast of Finistère has huge empty beaches (even in August), the brilliant the new Hotel Sainte-Barbe and almost-new Le Château de Sable hotel. I felt like I’d escaped the world and don’t we all need that once in a while?
