Village Castigno PDF
Village Castigno, a ‘scattered hotel’ in the Languedoc village of Assignan, has transformed a dying village into a vibrant centre for relaxation, creative workshops and wine-tasting… but forget about Instagramming it (published in Metro, 23 July 2018).
The new winery just outside Village Castigno, a welcoming village hotel in the south of France, is a curious beast. Designed in the shape of a wine bottle coming out of the earth, its neck is suspended on branch-like legs and its walls are covered in cork bark, the structure is truly impressive, and if I can fit it into the viewfinder of my phone, it’s also the ideal image for sharing on Instagram. One hitch though: there isn’t a phone signal for miles and WiFi is available in just one room back in the village. For now, the sharing will have to wait, because – unusually in these digital times – my stay in this sun-drenched village in a remote corner of the Languedoc is all about switching off. No notifications beeping, no news alerts buzzing and no emails pinging: just beautifully wild countryside, moreish wines, gourmet food and – ironically – enticingly Instagrammable décor and design.
Now in its third season, the Village Castigno is the creation of Tine and Marc Verstraete, a wealthy Belgian couple who, in 2007, began to transform the local ruined Château Castigno into a designer pad. While works were going on during the five-year renovation, they lived in a small house in the neighbouring village of Assignan, at that time an increasingly sad little place with no café, bakery or even electricity. The Verstraetes first bought some houses to accommodate their vineyard workers, but soon it developed into the idea of a village hotel – like the burgeoning Alberghi Diffusi (scattered hotels) in Italy – the couple had electricity installed, and opened a small tapas bar, and bought a few more houses spread throughout the village.
With her canvas in place, Tine, a former costume designer for TV and film, put her creativity into action. Inspired by the colours of wine lees (the residue left in vats of wine after fermentation), she decorated the houses and buildings that belong to the hotel in pinks, purples and reds, to striking effect. Slowly, the village came back to life, and while the locals were initially reticent, they too now love the new, vibrant community.
The hotel’s 24 rooms are set in 12 different houses, as well as a few purpose-built cabins, throughout the village and have a rustic feel and are decorated with upcycled materials; wine barrels become tables and frames for mirrors, artworks are made from recycled materials and come from developing communities in Africa, while other objets come from the Verstraetes’ personal collection from their epic travels. With three restaurants, a Balinese massage suite and a host of activities on offer, from bread-making to ceramics workshops, there is no need to be idle if you find the disconnection tough.
After a tasting the deliciously quaffable wines, I cycle back from the winery in the late afternoon sun, and ponder that the village’s lack of phone signal is its greatest asset. Without the interference from the outside world, I hear the birds singing, see the leaves budding on the vines, and admire the outdoor photography exhibition (charting the development of the winery) poised among the olive groves. The electric bike is speeding me along, so I turn down the power to the minimum to enjoy every moment of the ride.
Later, over dinner from La Petite Table in the village square, where red umbrellas tone with the red and pink façades of the buildings, I spot someone not so at ease with the enforced digital detox. A young man walks urgently through the square, iPhone in hand, towards the wine school – the room with the Wifi. While he’s there, I sip my rosé wine under whispers of pink clouds in the dusky sky, and taste every morsel of my asparagus, parmesan and bacon starter laid out on a glossy olive wood board. I read my book before the main course comes – a delicious duck parmentier served in a small red (of course) crockpot, the pureed vegetable topping bubbles with melted parmesan and lends a sweetness to the hunks of tender duck underneath. Between this and dessert, I chat to a French couple of the next table, on their third visit. And, as I tuck into the gently warmed chocolate and almond gateau dessert, the young man returns from his Wifi session down the street. I hope later he’ll sit in the square too, glancing the twinkling candles in the windows as he sips the wine, and that he realises what he’s really been missing.
Village Castigno: Double rooms from €130, breakfast €23 per person. Reservations: 00 33 4 67 24 26 41, village@chateaucastigno.com. More information at www.villagecastigno.com. Dinner at La Petite Table €19 for two courses, €24 for three (same website).
Other vineyard hotel escapes
Domaine de Verchant, Montpellier
Just outside the vibrant city of Montpellier near the coast, this sophisticated hotel is set on a 16th-century wine estate. It also offers a top class spa, and excellent restaurant. Doubles from €220 (domainedeverchant.com).
Château les Carrasses
This elegant restored 19th-century chateau is surrounded in vineyards and offers hotel rooms as well as self-catering apartments and houses, along with a winery, kids club and a host of activities. Doubles from €159 (lescarrasses.com).
Chateau Redorte
Near the Canal du Midi, Château Redorte is a restored 18th-century manor offering 25 suites, all with a kitchenette, and some with their own private pool. It is surrounded by vineyards with a cellar bar for tasting. Doubles from €119 (chateau-redorte.com)