For The Guardian’s autumn city breaks by train feature October 2019 (read the whole set here.)
Angers, Western Loire
Fastest journey from London 5 hours via Lille
Though it isn’t as well-known as other cities of the Loire, Angers makes the most of its unique position on the River Maine, just before it joins the Loire, with riverside restaurants and enchanting cycle trails, as well as art deco architecture, distilleries and an imposing chateau at the heart of the city.
Château d’Angers is a good place to start. This mighty fortress is surrounded by 17 towers which punctuate its mighty 2½-metre thick walls. For superb views of the city and river, walk around its ramparts, which enclose a tiny vineyard and gardens. Inside, the rooms and exhibits tell the story of the Dukes of Anjou who held court here in the 14th and 15th centuries and were great patrons of the arts. The main draw, however, is the 104-metre Tapestry of the Apocalypse illustrating the Book of Revelations. It took seven years to complete in the late 14th century and its six-metre-high panels, which depict 90 scenes, are beautifully lit in an atmospheric gallery. The chateau’s own restaurant serves good hearty dishes with mains from around €10.
Outside the chateau, follow the blue line painted on the pavements to guide you around a loop of the best sights in the old town. Highlights include the beautiful medieval Cathédral Saint-Maurice with its wonderful stained-glass windows. Just behind it is the six-storey, half-timbered Maison d’Adam, built in 1491 and home to decorative carvings of bawdy figures. A chain department store wouldn’t usually star in a city’s list of must-sees, but the elegant facade and art deco glass roof of Galeries Lafayette will delight fans of fine design. For more art deco, keep following the blue line to La Maison Bleue, an apartment building built in 1929 and decorated with colourful mosaics and ornate ironwork.
Autumn is the ideal time to pedal along the Loire à Vélo cycling track, which follows the famous river. Hire bikes at Vert Event Angers (from €15 a day) and cycle 8km down to the attractive village of Bouchemaine, where Le Noé is one of the region’s many guinguettes – riverside cafe-bistros that offer a host of entertainment, music and activities.
Three kilometres to the east, just outside peaceful Sainte-Gemmes-sur-Loire village, is another hub of activity at Guinguette de Port-Thibaut, with superb views over the broad river. Further down the Loire, a 30-minute cycle away, is the Île Béhuard – an island with monastery and historic chapel at the heart of the characterful village.
Angers is the home of Cointreau: the orange liqueur was created here in 1875 and visitors can tour the distillery. On the other side of town, Distillerie Giffard also has a visitor centre, with a range of liqueurs, including the Menthe-Pastille that made its name.
Example journey
Though most Eurostar journeys go via Paris, it is easier to go via Lille as there is a direct train from there to Angers. It also means you only have to cross the platform to change, rather than crossing Paris from Gard du Nord to Gare Montparnasse, and only one change. Take the 15.04 from London St Pancras, then the 17.52 from Lille. Returning, take the 12.41 to Lille, then the 17.35 back to London.
Stay
Hotel 21 Foch (doubles from €89 room only) is a small, contemporary hotel in the city centre.
CB