In one of the most fun stories I’ve done since having a family, the Zoo La Flèche counts in my top ten holiday experiences in France.
ZOO DE LA FLÈCHE, Sarthe
“Sleep in a zoo?” my three-year-old daughter exclaimed in disbelief. This sort of thing didn’t even happen in her story books, let alone in real life. But yes, I assured her, we would be sleeping in a zoo in a cosy lodge next to the lemurs. The reality didn’t really dawn on her until we arrived, and even less so on her one-year-old brother, but for her parents – whose inner children were, let’s face it, the real guests here – the excitement was palpable. We were met by Mathieu at the zoo shop, where we handed over our bags and baby paraphernalia, and he told us
to rendezvous near the café at 6pm. As we wandered into the zoo, in the opposite direction to the last of the day visitors, the excitement grew. Here we were with a zoo seemingly to ourselves. Sure, there were the guests for the other lodges – three of which are next to the lemurs, another two next to the white tiger, two looking on to the Arctic wolves and a new villa for 2015 next to the polar bears – but for that moment, it was just us, our children and an elephant enjoying the warmth of the spring evening.
The zoo has 120 species in enclosures across 14 hectares and as we sauntered – or toddled – along the wide, empty paths admiring giraffe, tapirs and polar bears, we talked about where the animals lived in the world. Mathieu met us again by the café, and we followed him to a huge wooden gate, which swung open after he punched in a number in the keypad. We wandered up the ramp to the front terrace of our lodge and, as we leaned over the barrier, were met with the amazing sight of dozens of lemurs – some reclining in the evening sun, some chasing others around the enclosure, others nibbling pieces of fruit. The lemurs’ squawking noise, together with a frog chorus and occasional call from a peacock added to the excitement. The cheeky primates, with their stripy tails and black eyes, were our entertainment for the evening, both from the balcony and through the huge picture window in the children’s bedroom on the lodge’s lower level. A beautiful canopied bed sat to the rear of the cabin, with a seating area and fridge to the front. A TV and coffee-table books would entertain us once darkness fell. Our pre-prepared evening meal was laid out in Kilner-like jars in the fridge – all we had to do, Mathieu explained, was microwave them, serve and eat. A starter, main, salad, cheese, dessert, wine and mineral water were provided by a local one-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Moulin des Quatre Saisons. Nothing was missed, which was just as well because, from 6.30pm, it was impossible to get out to retrieve anything. A warden was on hand for emergencies, but that was it – we would be voluntarily imprisoned until 9am the next day. The lemurs, we were told, were ‘sent to bed’ at around 10pm, so a peaceful night was assured.
We gobbled down the delicious meal and the children got their pyjamas on while we watched the lemurs through the window of their room. As the sun set, and we wound down, so too did the noise from outside and a quiet descended. As we finished our wine and tucked into our desserts, we big kids agreed that it was one of the most fun experiences we had ever had in France. The next morning, we were up early, breakfasted and in among the lemurs by 9.30am with barely any fellow visitors. Having stared at the animals from the cabin at a little distance, it was hilarious to have them running around our feet and clambering around the logs so close to us. After the lemurs, we explored the rest of the park and, as more day visitors arrived, we spent several hours exploring, learning and watching the animals. After lunch in the canteen (three courses were available, of course), it was time to go, and with heavy hearts we walked out through the exit, wishing every visit to a zoo could be as exciting.
Carolyn Boyd
Le Tertre Rouge, 72200 La Flèche Tel: (Fr) 2 43 48 19 19 www.zoo-la-fleche.com Prices from €115pp per night (children from €62), including breakfast, dinner and two days’ admission to the zoo.